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Discuss Internal Geohot unlock switch at the Hardware - Hackint0sh.org; Originally Posted by RVN84 take it in everytime, unless he installs a switch that can ...
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    Lightbulb Dock Switch

    Quote Originally Posted by RVN84 View Post
    take it in everytime, unless he installs a switch that can be triggered from outside...

    i read elsewhere that perhaps there are pins spare in the dock connector, so these pins could be tied to the 2 wires, and a switch made on the dock.
    I like the dock idea! You could even just make a hacking dongle out of an old Dock connector with the specific pins shorted together, that you just plug in at the right moment.
    Does anyone know the pinouts for the iPhone? I can only gather that some of them are different the well known iPod dock connector pinouts!


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    Quote Originally Posted by texaspyro View Post
    They fit perfectly in the RF compartment next to the NOR chip where the etch was scraped and down to the capacitor below the one where Geohot picked up the +1.8V power line.
    Did you take a photo of this and could you post it here? Would be great!
    Quote Originally Posted by freeproductions View Post
    Does anyone know the pinouts for the iPhone? I can only gather that some of them are different the well known iPod dock connector pinouts!
    Have a look here in geohot's blog: http://iphonejtag.blogspot.com/2007/...connector.html
    A problem of the dock solution could be the 1,8V connected to a dock pin that's accidentally used in some other docking connector and then probably kill your iPhone - so be careful where you connect it to ...
    Last edited by Diet; 08-26-2007 at 11:22 AM.

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    Yes, we took pictures (with one of the iphones, of course... not the best thing for closeups though). Then we managed to lose the photos while mucking around with the software part of the unlock.

    Since we managed to get the cases apart and back together again without leaving any obvious marks (it helps to have a rather skilled jeweler/watchmaker/elfen mystic handy), hopefully the next time that the cases will need to be opened will be to replace the battery in a few (yeah, right) years.

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    Hi,
    yesterday I finished the installation of my internal unlock switch:



    Works great if you hold a magnet near the back side of the closed iPhone (about 1 or 2 mm away).

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    Looks nice, but I am a little bit concerned about the solder connection to the scraped etch. It looks like it is only bonded on one side of the reed wire. Those are rather large and heavy wires compared with the size of the etch. With just a little area of solder making contact, the reed may come loose if the phone is dropped, etc. Might not be a problem at all... the reed has a rather low mass and t would take a good whack to cause it to move enough to come loose. If it does then it is an easy fix, but then the whole ideas is one should not have to open the phone again.

    The reeds that I used had smaller wires. I bent about 1/10" of the end so that it was parallel to the etch and soldered it (if one does that, make sure that to hold the wire with small pliers, etc and bend the end of the wire on the other side of the pliers from the reed. Those glass cylinders are fragile and if you try and bend a heavy wire too close to the reed, it may break).


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    Quote Originally Posted by texaspyro View Post
    Looks nice, but I am a little bit concerned about the solder connection to the scraped etch. It looks like it is only bonded on one side of the reed wire. Those are rather large and heavy wires compared with the size of the etch. With just a little area of solder making contact, the reed may come loose if the phone is dropped, etc.
    This was also a concern of mine after soldering the wire but it's not that easy to bend it in the correct shape to fit better.
    After the first soldering it actually broke loose when moving it a bit back and forth but after the second try it was fixed much better!
    BTW: I first soldered the connection to the scraped etch and then to the SMD capacitor. The reed contact is also kept in place by the shielding cover of the basband module so I'm not very concerned about a possible breaking of the solder connection.
    The reeds that I used had smaller wires. I bent about 1/10" of the end so that it was parallel to the etch and soldered it (if one does that, make sure that to hold the wire with small pliers, etc and bend the end of the wire on the other side of the pliers from the reed. Those glass cylinders are fragile and if you try and bend a heavy wire too close to the reed, it may break).
    Yeah, they are very, very fragile! I ordered three of them but I didn't break one

 

 
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